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Church Key - 5.8 A0

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This spectacular route goes up the NW Face in the gigantic open book below and to the right of the Church Key. From the NRE-MRE saddle third class to the top of a mossy-rocked shoulder. Rope up and climb either the vertical chimney straight ahead or the steep rock to its left. Soon, free climbing peters out. Place a pendulum pin as high as possible and pendulum right into the crack below an over hanging step around and behind which you force your way. Then up a great ramp to the Second Overhang, where the Church Key itself abuts on the vertical N. Face. Go far back into this great chimney and climb out through some holes above. Then friction climb the extensive ramp which forms the west side of the Church Key to level ground. A short easy chimney leads to the summit. A variation (Harry Earle and Bernard Topp) is to traverse across the sheer N. Face at the level of the shoulder on the West Face Route, then rappel into the great open book above the First Overhang and below the Second Overhang. Finish as above (the W. Face was reached by an easy traverse from the large mossy shoulder).

Submitted by: LongReach on 2008-04-21
Views: 314
Route ID: 93160