The next Rib north of the Long Rib is the Broken Rib, a discontinuous rib consisting of three fragments, of which the middle third is the sharpest blade of rock in the Rib Cage. This middle third, like the upper end of the Knife Rib, has never been traversed.
Approach to its base from the Mine above Topp Hut, staying high and avoiding arroyos which are deep lower down. The first third is straightforward low 4th Class climbing on friction and small holds at an easy angle. Continue up the Rib to the tower marking the lower end of the sharp blade of the middle third, (The correct route from here would continue up the spine of the Rib.) Traverse off into the very narrow gully running up on its left. There are two chimneys to surmount, the upper one more delicate, involving a wide split and, subsequent taking to the right wall. A few feet beyond this upper chimney a small saddle is attained, from which one can climb to the sharp summit pinnacle of the razor-like portion of the Broken Rib. (From here admire its 300 foot slightly overhanging Southern Comfort Wall.) From the saddle mount a vertical pitch to a point about half way up the upper third of the Broken Rib, and continue up easy rock to the top.
Submitted by: LongReach on 2008-04-18
Route ID: 93159