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Face, Ball's Away - 5.7

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A fine route on steep, firm rock. Take to the pretty, miniature, triangular W. Face, about 300' high at a prominent shoulder, which projects out of it at the bottom, somewhat left of center. Climb unroped as high as possible on this shoulder. The first pitch goes straight up some 30', then traverses left to the top of a shoulder on the face. Next pitch traverses right some 20' to a bolt, then oozes around the bottom of a prominent rib, then up a dihedral and over the top of the rib to a good belay spot about 40' above the bolt. The next pitch is an easy diagonal traverse up and to the right along a large fault, but only about 30' long (to a scooped out place with a bush!). From this belay climb straight up about 20', and go up very steep rock to the left of an over hanging bit (a great hold, once you get high enough). You arrive at a comfortable ledge. Mantle onto a chest high crescent crack and clip into the bolt. Then search to the left for any available holds. The secret here is to ooze leftward, then get the left foot high onto "The Great Grey Foothold," which certain negative spirits have classified as a mere discoloration of the rock. You go up some 10'-15' without any decent holds, then seize a good finger hold and traverse left to security. The summit is 20' away.

Submitted by: LongReach on 2008-04-18
Views: 246
Route ID: 93162