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Flea Tree Dihedral - 5.7

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Rock (Trad)
G
6
Full set of nuts, hexes, cams to #3 or 3.5, long slings
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Description:

Approach as for the Right Eyebrow. First Pitch: as in the Right Eyebrow, climb around the right edge of the Eye and up to a comfortable ledge. Second Pitch: mount right and slightly upward on 3rd and 4th class rock, running out the rope. This puts you about 40 feet beneath a striking triangular slab with slanting dihedrals forming the top two sides. This is the bit, which, when viewed from around the N. Face camp, causes much head shaking. It is steep, but not as steep as it looked from there. Third Pitch, the crux: climb up to the base of the triangle slab and get a good pin (a bong) as high up as possible in the right hand dihedral. Then levitate upward and to the left on small holds, to a few good holds in the left dihedral. Move back right to the apex of the triangle and step up onto an airy knob. Now the upper part of the pitch can be seen; a steep crack running straight up and a steep slabby face to the right. Traverse right about 8-10' on a good tiny ledge which then disappears. Mantle up and over into a good stance and move back left to the crack again. Mount on easier rock to the belay spot on top of a giant flake about 20' up and to the left. Do not place any pro behind it - as big as it is, it moves and groans! And the whole party is directly below. A terrific nut crack is discovered just above it. Fourth Pitch: the upper part of the dihedral, now easy, is quickly disposed of, placing you beneath a small bare patch of wall. Simply ooze up and right and then back leftward on classic familiar Organ friction climbing. The angle eases off and you romp toward the Flea Tree. Belay somewhere below it, or perhaps even reach it. Sixth Pitch: after making the acquaintance of the fabulous Flea Tree, mount directly over it on steep slabs with disgracefully good holds to level ground just below and west of the summit. Unrope and march to the summit.

Submitted by: aimeerose on 2008-04-21
Views: 493
Route ID: 74932