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E Face Traverse - Clem's Folly - 5.7

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A beautiful route, featuring a tiny holds traverse on a blank wall. Leave Rabbit Ear Canyon shortly before where the normal descent route comes out, and bushwhack to the base of the E Face. The first pitch goes up a dihedral formed by the right side of a small buttress about 70' high in the middle of the lower E Face. Not trivial. Belay from the top of this. The next pitch is the Traverse: move to the right and up on small holds to a bolt. Then down from here and right to a solution pocket foothold. Up again a few feet and delicate step to the right to a foot-square platform. (Some people like to go down from the solution pocket and mantle back up to this little platform.) The crux moves are these, into and out of the solution pocket and the top 10' of the first pitch. Continue to the right on easier rock (there are some fingerholds) into a small dihedral about 30' high and up it to the belay spot on top of a prominent buttress of tumbled blocks which separates the E Face from the overhangs of the NE Face. The third pitch goes up an easy large crack behind. (A poor, disappearing ledge leading out of this on the right is not advised: ask Clem.) Then traverse around an upper ledge almost to the right-hand skyline, where you go directly up on small holds a belay when the slope eases off. Finish by walking 50' around to the right and do the pretty facelet at the top of the N Face.

Submitted by: LongReach on 2008-04-21
Views: 499
Route ID: 93147