The hardest free climb on the Citadel as of now. Climb as in Zigzag to the belay just above the "giant easily sloping ledge". The next pitch is hard and very indirect, ending up about 80' directly above the belay. But to get there you must first head right, take a giant step onto some steep slabs, then back to the left up small dihedrals with step-downs onto steep slabs. The next pitch, the crux, continues 15' up the very steep slab to a small perch under a slightly overhanging wall. Get in a good pro as high as you can, then move up 3' and traverse 8' to the right, hanging on your arms with minimal footholds. Pull up on one arm, get a small handhold somewhere above, then muscle up to an ample ledge. An even harder way goes right from the small perch, involving a slither with only minimal finger holds. After one short 3rd class pitch you exit directly into the Citadel garden.
Submitted by: LongReach on 2008-04-18
Route ID: 93152