Branch off Rabbit Ears Canyon at the place for the NW Ridge but continue up the gully to the west of the Citadel. A large gash in the W Face diagonaling up and to the left is finally seen. The first pitch goes up easy rock for 100' to a belay spot just above a bush in the gash. Stay definitely on the left wall of this huge chimney (rotten on the right!) for two short pitches up to a niche where the chimney narrows and begins to overhang--steep slabs to the left. These two pitches are fine 5.6 face and small holds climbing. Then make a dramatic zig down and to the right under the most overhanging part of the face. A nice hand traverse leads to a Ledge which continues level to the right. The next pitch takes you onto a giant easily sloping ledge; climb up and back to the left to a belay spot directly over the last one on the Zig traverse. You are now ready to zag back on a long ledge which leads up and to the left. After about 100' there is a hard move up a sloping step which drops off to the left with marvellous exposure--this is the one 5.7 move. The Zag ledge puts you on the NW Ridge just above Face I; continue as in NW Ridge to the summit.
Submitted by: LongReach on 2008-04-18
Route ID: 93151