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NE Ridge - 5.1

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Approach as in the Standard Route, then drop down the East Side to a huge pine at the bottom of the NW Face a few hundred feet from the NE Ridge from which a shallow easy gully mounts the Face. Climb up this for several hundred feet through a succession of 3rd Class problems: chimneys, friction slabs, awkward corners. Then bear left until almost on the Ridge, and climb parallel to it until just under the summit block.(The exposure on the SE Side of the Ridge, where it slightly overhangs the steep gully descending from the Spire-Razorback Col, it is inspiring.) Turn this on the left and gain the SE Face by a long step. A few feet of easy rock leads to the summit ridge. (Incidentally, this SE Face, although easy in its upper portions, has never been climbed to date. The bottom part, rising from the Spire-Razorback Col, forms a short vertical step lacking in holds or good pro cracks.)

Submitted by: LongReach on 2008-04-18
Views: 383
Route ID: 93157