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NW Face Direct - 5.7

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Approach as in the Standard Route, then drop down on the East Side from the Spire-Low Horn #6 Saddle to a point at the bottom of the NW Face directly in line with the prominent vertical fault which bisects the Upper Face. The first pitch is a short athletic, small holds one, which puts you onto easy ground. From here climb up to the left over steep but easy rock, plentifully provided with holds, to the top of a large shoulder. Then scramble straight up over easy rock to the foot of a more vertical section. Climb a steep gully or the wall to the right on good holds for 50 feet, which puts you on the comfortable ledge at the foot of the "12 foot wall" of the Standard Route. Above this, work out onto the N Side of the NW Face (left of the Summit Gully) on very small holds and friction. From a welcome large slab (behind which pro may be placed) traverse left below steep bulging slabs on a good ledge, which partially excuses the lamentable sparseness of handholds. Eventually it is best to drop into a semi-hand traverse position with the fingers on the ledge which has become impracticable for the feet. At some 40 feet from the NE Ridge one can surmount the bulge above with the aid of handholds in a rotten diagonal crack. Above this a short easy pitch leads to the palatial summit block at the northeast end of the summit ridge.

Submitted by: LongReach on 2008-04-18
Views: 374
Route ID: 93156