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Black Arch ArÍte - 5.10b

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Route sequence (left to right): 3
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (0)
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October 2008
Rock (Trad)
Full set of cams plus extra #1, 2 & 3 Camalots, quickdraws.
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Start near the right edge of the buttress, at a shallow "cave" with blocks in it that tapers to a chimney leading to a crack in an open book/right-facing corner. Chimney up and continue climbing the corner/crack until, near the crack's end, one can step out right onto the edge of the buttress itself. Climb this, passing two bolts (SS 3/8" Fixe, Oct. 2008), to a small overhang. Turn this on the left side of the outside corner and asecnd the slab above to another overhang. Climb through this at the crack to a large ledge. NOTE: a 70meter rope will just barely TR this route from the bolt anchor by the upper overhang, but it is fifth class climbing to reach these from the ledge - with potential for a 115' fall, so if you choose to TR the line, rap to the anchors from the woods above.

Descent Options:

Scramble up scruffy ledges into the woods and head south (climber's left) to reach the "Diagonal Ramp," an easy walk-down; or use the anchors to rappel (70m or double ropes a must).

Submitted by: jclimbs on 2009-02-08
Last Modified: 2010-03-04
Views: 537
Route ID: 97805