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Carpenter & Das - 5.8

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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May 2009
Rock (Trad)
Modern Trad rack, small to 3" Cams, set of nuts
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5


Start: This route is on the first cliff section one encounters upon reaching the Black Arches Wall. Begin 20' right of the steep drainage gully, at a 3' tall flake lying against the cliff, 8' below a ledge. P1 45' 5.7+: Climb up to the ledge. Walk to its left end and go up a sloping ramp system to reach a series of cracks leading up and right. Follow these through a short, steep headwall to a sloping ledge under a large, overhanging flake. P2 5.8 85': Climb the crack at the left end of the belay ledge (easier: use the crack and the flake to the right) to the crack's end, then traverse left to a sloping alcove. Climb up to a vertical crack ending beneath a triangular overhang. Climb through the overhang just right of its "nose" (5.8; one can traverse right to avoid this move), then up and left along the arÍte to a large ledge. P3: Rappel, or climb the last 10' to the top (5.6).

Descent Options:

2. Rappel from fixed anchors at the top of the second pitch to fixed anchors right of the 1st pitch belay ledge, thence down to the ground. A "stretchy" 70m rope and big climbers occasionally manages to reach the ground in one rappel - but this is not rec

Submitted by: jclimbs on 2009-10-24
Views: 627
Route ID: 102171

1 Ascent Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: spdymnky on 2011-11-13 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars fun climb

this is fun esp the small celing on 2nd pitch

Added: 2011-11-13