Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
Modern Trad rack, small to 3" Cams, set of nuts
Start: This route is on the first cliff section one encounters upon reaching the Black Arches Wall. Begin 20' right of the steep drainage gully, at a 3' tall flake lying against the cliff, 8' below a ledge.
P1 45' 5.7+: Climb up to the ledge. Walk to its left end and go up a sloping ramp system to reach a series of cracks leading up and right. Follow these through a short, steep headwall to a sloping ledge under a large, overhanging flake.
P2 5.8 85': Climb the crack at the left end of the belay ledge (easier: use the crack and the flake to the right) to the crack's end, then traverse left to a sloping alcove. Climb up to a vertical crack ending beneath a triangular overhang. Climb through the overhang just right of its "nose" (5.8; one can traverse right to avoid this move), then up and left along the arÍte to a large ledge.
P3: Rappel, or climb the last 10' to the top (5.6).
2. Rappel from fixed anchors at the top of the second pitch to fixed anchors right of the 1st pitch belay ledge, thence down to the ground. A "stretchy" 70m rope and big climbers occasionally manages to reach the ground in one rappel - but this is not rec
Submitted by: jclimbs on 2009-10-24
Route ID: 102171