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Route sequence (left to right): 11
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (0)
Cams to 1 1/2"; some medium stoppers
Begin in the funky corner between the Tripe Buttress and the Black Arch Arete Buttress. Climb up the corner and vertical crack to a horizontal crack. Follow this rightward to a flake, go up this to the right face of a short rock pillar, then climb this (be careful with protection, rope, and runners here) to an overhang at its end. Go over this and begin an intricate ascent up steep face with several bolts augmented by horizontal cracks; moving toward the crux move at a "blank" section (bolt pro) with a miniscule left sidepull and big reach to a good horizontal. Mantle the horizontal and begin a short up and rightward climb to a bulging face. Move left to a notch, then straight upward, past one more bolt at an intricate series of crux sidepulls to a last good horizontal. From there, climb the easy slab up and right to the anchor shared with Black Arch Arete.
It is possible to rappel from here or TR this with a 70m rope; however, the anchors are NOT accessible via walkup.
Rappel with 70m rope; otherwise you must climb the last few feet (5.5) to class 3 scrambling then walk left to reach the Diagonal Ramp, a nontechnical path back down to the BAW path.
Submitted by: jclimbs on 2012-06-23
Route ID: 111721