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In the Beginning - 5.7

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Route sequence (left to right): 1
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Rock (Trad)
Good to fair; bring plenty of runners
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15' left of the main inside corner is a flake/crack system heading up and left. P1: Follow flake/cracks to the vertical, right-leaning crack and go up this to the small dike ledge. Traverse left 8 meters to the ledge with an oak tree below a corner/chimney facing right. 100' P2: Up the corner until it is possible to swing out left onto the outside edge. Sling oak tree branches for pro as you climb on stacked blocks, then swing back into the corner once past the steep, dirty section. Climb up the corner/crack through an overhang and either follow the crack or step right and up the knobby face on the outside of the buttress (this will be the same part of the face as Straits of Fear). Belay at the change in angle on the face. 160' P3: Scramble up the dirty slab into the woods. 50'

Descent Options:

Dbl Rope rappel the route, walk climber's left into gully below Black Arches Wall, then either down the funnel to a single rope rappel to get to the base, or across the bowl to access the herd path back to the trailhead

Submitted by: jclimbs on 2009-04-20
Views: 465
Route ID: 42354