The crack in the giant inside corner facing left. This is a major drainage for the wall, so dry conditions should prevail.
P1: Climb up the cracks in the corner and up the right side as the crack there becomes a chimney, to the ledge on the right. 165'
P2: The original ascent opted to climb the slab right of the main corner for about 30', trending left to gain pro in the corner before again heading up and right to surmount the overhang through the obvious weakness right of the main corner. 100'
Despite a tendency to be damp, this is a good route. After several aborted attempts, this was ice-climbed in Feb '05. The first pitch took mostly rock pro; the second was an easy, thick ice slab to a 3m ending wall. MI 3, 5.6
Submitted by: jclimbs on 2009-04-20
Route ID: 42353
Finally tempted someone into coming out and doing this as a mixed route, after taking pictures, stitching up a huge image of the route, and sending it to Jason. We went out for a look-see and came back a week later to put it to rest. It was brilliantly warm and the ice was getting very soft as we began climbing. Since the bottom pitch entails an ice tendril that is only a few inches wide at one point, we couldn't dilly-dally. Up we went: the first pitch an excellent MI 3/5.6 160'; the second pitch a phat WI2+/3- of about 100'. It was easily 50 degrees out by the time we began rappelling.