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Straits of Fear Variation - 5.10b

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Route sequence (left to right): 3
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Rock (Toprope)
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Instead of following the flake/crack to the crack at the start of P1, follow for 15' or so then step right onto the face below a tiny overhang. Make a hard move on crimpers to surmount the OH, then wander up the steep face to the dike. Go up the steep right-facing, slashing corner, using both inside and outside edges to the belay ledge.

Descent Options:

Finish Straits of Fear and walk down. One can rappel from the belay with double ropes, but one would also have to leave gear to do so. It looks possible to traverse moderate fifth class (~5.7) right to get to the belay ledge of Providence, but that hardly

Submitted by: jclimbs on 2009-04-20
Views: 549
Route ID: 42355