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Empress - 5.5

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (19)
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Rock
Virtually no protection and the climb is akin to a solo.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 4.14/5
  Rock Quality 4.43/5
  Scenery 4.43/5
  Fun Factor 4.43/5

Description:

This and Regular Route see most of the traffic. 1-climb the corner with good protection to its top and belay at a good crack 5.3 140'. 2-continue in the right facing corner system for 2 pitches of easier climbing to reach the Hummock belay of pitch 4. Most parties however, head diagonally right accross a low angled section to a belay at the base of a huge, arching, left facing corner. 3-head across left on smooth rock, gaining a rolling ledge system comprised of 3 rock hommocks. these can be reached directly from the 1st pitch with a 165' rope. 4-a short pitch leads across to gain the highest of the ledges,directly under the wide crack high above. 5- this is an excellent friction/face pitch.the best line offers no protection. a safer line heads off left a bit and finds protection in a hidden corner before getting back onto the blank slab. belay at the birch ledge 5.5 150' 6-climb the off-sized crack on the buttress to its top,belay here,or step out right onto a foothold and make a continuous,exposed run-out to a cramped belay 5.5 150' 7-the going gets steadily easier toward the crest(resist the temptation to go for the top from the shelf belay atop the off sized crack its about 190' with no anchor). Variation Greensleeves-5.6 300'(s) From the birch belay of pitch 5 climb across right and gain a 2 pitch right facing corner.

Submitted by: climb512 on 2001-12-23
Views: 1482
Route ID: 7741

19 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: Bulletproof2000 on 2009-09-19 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Empress

to Green Sleeves

Added: 2013-04-23

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dagibbs on 2011-06-04 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Fun

V1 variant the start, Greensleeves variant at the finish.

Added: 2011-06-06

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating X
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jaysen769 on 2010-09-08 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars jaysen henderson

first x line, very exciting

Added: 2010-09-08

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jay2 on 2010-08-08 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars Done after regular route

Not as nice or as well protected as the regular route.

Added: 2010-08-08

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.5
  Safety Rating G
Solo Solo ascent by: teti on 2010-05-23 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars .

.

Added: 2010-05-25

... Read all 19 ascent notes