Excellent protection except for pitch 4. Double set of nuts, cams from 1" to 3"
** The piton on the second pitch is no longer there according to climbers who went up in mid-June. There is no option for traditional protection and it leaves the second pitch with a 5.6 R section at the moment. If anyone hears anything about the piton being replaced please include it in an ascent or edit this description.
P1: 5.7 finger crack to left leading ramp. Climb headwall above ramp to ledge, Belay. small gear.
P2: 5.7 15-20 ft runout to base of corner. Climb open book/broken corner to small stance below roof. Belay at small birch. Small gear for anchor. Mid-size nuts and cams.
P3: 5.6-5.7 Leave belay, turn first roof to right side. Smallto mid sized gear under roof. Climb right racing corner to second roof, turn on right side. Face climb 20+ ft to ledge and belay.
P4: Have fun. Very broken and loose rock to top. 5.4 difficulty, minimal pro worth using. Avoid huge detatched block part-way between anchor and top. Very loose, balanced by ?.
Submitted by: admin on 2003-03-01
Last Modified: 2012-07-03
Route ID: 9832
I wish I did this when I was a fledgling 5.8 climber! It's outstanding but would have been so satisfying to climb a route of this character when that was my limit. Led p. 1 & 3. The 4th pitch is the original finish to Fritz Weissner's Old Route.