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Quadrophenia - 5.7 popular

Average Rating = 4.42/5 Average Rating : 4.42 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (18)
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Rock
G
Excellent protection except for pitch 4. Double set of nuts, cams from 1" to 3"
350
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.91/5
  Rock Quality 4.27/5
  Scenery 4.18/5
  Fun Factor 4.55/5

Description:

** The piton on the second pitch is no longer there according to climbers who went up in mid-June. There is no option for traditional protection and it leaves the second pitch with a 5.6 R section at the moment. If anyone hears anything about the piton being replaced please include it in an ascent or edit this description. P1: 5.7 finger crack to left leading ramp. Climb headwall above ramp to ledge, Belay. small gear. P2: 5.7 15-20 ft runout to base of corner. Climb open book/broken corner to small stance below roof. Belay at small birch. Small gear for anchor. Mid-size nuts and cams. P3: 5.6-5.7 Leave belay, turn first roof to right side. Smallto mid sized gear under roof. Climb right racing corner to second roof, turn on right side. Face climb 20+ ft to ledge and belay. P4: Have fun. Very broken and loose rock to top. 5.4 difficulty, minimal pro worth using. Avoid huge detatched block part-way between anchor and top. Very loose, balanced by ?.

Submitted by: admin on 2003-03-01
Last Modified: 2012-07-03
Views: 1543
Route ID: 9832

Most Recent Photos (See all 7 photos)

18 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: barkandbite on 2012-06-02 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Gr8

W/ml. Lead p.1and3

Added: 2012-07-02

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: sweetblood on 2011-08-20 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Quadrophenia

thoughtful moves, great roof-cruxes. thrilling climb!

Added: 2011-08-29

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: KVjay on 2007-05-22 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Hurr

chris and i

Added: 2010-03-22

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: lucander on 2009-10-18 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Quadrophenia

I wish I did this when I was a fledgling 5.8 climber! It's outstanding but would have been so satisfying to climb a route of this character when that was my limit. Led p. 1 & 3. The 4th pitch is the original finish to Fritz Weissner's Old Route.

Added: 2009-10-19

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jajen on 2009-09-02 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Fun route

Long freakin' uphill hike, cool location and the summit is excellent! 5.7+ - 5.8

Added: 2009-09-16

... Read all 18 ascent notes