Routes : North America : United States : New York : Adirondack park : Keene Valley : Hurricane Crag : Quadrophenia
Quadrophenia - 5.7 popular
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (18)
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Rock
G
Excellent protection except for pitch 4. Double set of nuts, cams from 1" to 3"
350
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Description:
** The piton on the second pitch is no longer there according to climbers who went up in mid-June. There is no option for traditional protection and it leaves the second pitch with a 5.6 R section at the moment. If anyone hears anything about the piton being replaced please include it in an ascent or edit this description. P1: 5.7 finger crack to left leading ramp. Climb headwall above ramp to ledge, Belay. small gear. P2: 5.7 15-20 ft runout to base of corner. Climb open book/broken corner to small stance below roof. Belay at small birch. Small gear for anchor. Mid-size nuts and cams. P3: 5.6-5.7 Leave belay, turn first roof to right side. Smallto mid sized gear under roof. Climb right racing corner to second roof, turn on right side. Face climb 20+ ft to ledge and belay. P4: Have fun. Very broken and loose rock to top. 5.4 difficulty, minimal pro worth using. Avoid huge detatched block part-way between anchor and top. Very loose, balanced by ?.
Submitted by: admin on 2003-03-01
Last Modified: 2012-07-03
Views: 1543
Route ID: 9832
Most Recent Photos (See all 7 photos)
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18 Ascents Recorded
Record an ascent
Read all 18 ascent notes
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| Safety Rating | G |
Gr8
W/ml. Lead p.1and3
Added: 2012-07-02
| Ratings | |
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| Difficulty | 5.7 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | ![]() |
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| Scenery | ![]() |
| Fun Factor | ![]() |
Quadrophenia
thoughtful moves, great roof-cruxes. thrilling climb!
Added: 2011-08-29
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| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | ![]() |
| Rock Quality | ![]() |
| Scenery | ![]() |
| Fun Factor | ![]() |
Hurr
chris and i
Added: 2010-03-22
| Ratings | |
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| Difficulty | 5.7 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | ![]() |
| Rock Quality | ![]() |
| Scenery | ![]() |
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Quadrophenia
I wish I did this when I was a fledgling 5.8 climber! It's outstanding but would have been so satisfying to climb a route of this character when that was my limit. Led p. 1 & 3. The 4th pitch is the original finish to Fritz Weissner's Old Route.
Added: 2009-10-19
| Ratings | |
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| Difficulty | 5.7 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | ![]() |
| Rock Quality | ![]() |
| Scenery | ![]() |
| Fun Factor | ![]() |
Fun route
Long freakin' uphill hike, cool location and the summit is excellent! 5.7+ - 5.8
Added: 2009-09-16





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