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Quadrophenia - 5.7 popular

Average Rating = 4.29/5 Average Rating : 4.29 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (20)
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Rock
G
Excellent protection except for pitch 4. Double set of nuts, cams from 1" to 3"
350
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.33/5
  Scenery 4.25/5
  Fun Factor 4.42/5

Description:

** The piton on the second pitch is no longer there according to climbers who went up in mid-June. There is no option for traditional protection and it leaves the second pitch with a 5.6 R section at the moment. If anyone hears anything about the piton being replaced please include it in an ascent or edit this description. P1: 5.7 finger crack to left leading ramp. Climb headwall above ramp to ledge, Belay. small gear. P2: 5.7 15-20 ft runout to base of corner. Climb open book/broken corner to small stance below roof. Belay at small birch. Small gear for anchor. Mid-size nuts and cams. P3: 5.6-5.7 Leave belay, turn first roof to right side. Smallto mid sized gear under roof. Climb right racing corner to second roof, turn on right side. Face climb 20+ ft to ledge and belay. P4: Have fun. Very broken and loose rock to top. 5.4 difficulty, minimal pro worth using. Avoid huge detatched block part-way between anchor and top. Very loose, balanced by ?.

Submitted by: admin on 2003-03-01
Last Modified: 2012-07-03
Views: 2058
Route ID: 9832

Most Recent Photos (See all 7 photos)

20 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: sonso45 on 2013-09-26 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars put back the piton

I don't understand why it hasn't been replaced. Unless it was a rurp; then place a bolt instead.

The fall will seriously injure someone. The belay wasn't the most awe inspiring.

Added: 2013-09-27

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: gblauer on 2013-09-26 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Great climb

Had a lot of fun on this climb. I started up P1 and got a little spooked. Manny lead the rest of the climb. P1 and P3 are great pitches. P2 has an unprotected start with a couple of moves before you can get in solid pro. Apparently there used to be a pin, now gone protecting the start. Worth the 25 minute uphill hike!

Added: 2013-09-26

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: barkandbite on 2012-06-02 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Gr8

W/ml. Lead p.1and3

Added: 2012-07-02

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: sweetblood on 2011-08-20 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Quadrophenia

thoughtful moves, great roof-cruxes. thrilling climb!

Added: 2011-08-29

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: KVjay on 2007-05-22 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Hurr

chris and i

Added: 2010-03-22

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