Near the left end of the cliff is a large ledge about 15 ft up. Traverse up and right from this ledge to a stance with a couple bolts, you can belay here to reduce rope drag if you wanted to. From there head up past a bolt, 1/4" buttonhead, pull over a bit of an overlap and head from another bolted belay just below a very large loose flake. The second pitch head up, past some cracks/flakes and left through around the roof above and ends at a ledge with a ra anchor. There is a 5.9 variation that heads away from the crack past a bolt to a handcrack through the roof, looks good. From the last belay you can hit the ground with two ropes or continue up easier slab to the trees at the top.....another 100+ ft or so. Overall an excellent climb on an amazing cliff. dont bring too much gear, you wont need it.
Submitted by: capn_morgan on 2005-07-26
Route ID: 68440
With Frank N. from Georgia, led p. 2. Worthwhile, but a notch below routes like Hesitation and Quadrophenia on the ADK moderate classic list. Manky bolt on p. 2 can be backed up with a red c3, best to do so because it's a bit run out from here. Take a rack to 3 or 4 inches for the third pitch. Guidebook advises a loooooong double rope rap from top of p. 3, avoiding an unpleasant walk off left.