This route is in the middle of the cliff. It starts about 100 ft up at the big dihedral and ledge. On the left side of the large dihedral, a line of bolts up and left. There is a low crux and a high crux on the first pitch. A few medium cams needed. At the first anchor, go left about 30 ft to a crack and bulge (5.10 r). At the top of the crack, snag a hidden jug and pull onto the face. Make an improbably traverse back right with RP gear (I believe I used 2 # 5 offsets) and very delicate moves. Traverse further right into the obvious crack. The second belay is abut 30 ft above the first, after 70 ft of climbing. Climb the crack, and run it out to the top.
Every pitch contains 5.11 to 11+ climbing. The Adirondack guide rating of 11 B is a bit of a sand bag. This is an extraordinarily good, bold and rewarding route.
Submitted by: stevecurtis on 2009-11-02
Route ID: 102269