Beautiful steep bolted face climb on the black water streak right of the Great Dihedral. Slab moves across the ramp to the bottom of the bolt line then super technical, fun, face climbing to the anchors up and left. Rap with one 55+ meter rope
Submitted by: jajen on 2006-07-10
Last Modified: 2009-09-29
Route ID: 77955
Easier than it looks thanks to a spattering of conveniently spaced edges and laybacks, reminiscent of Solid Gold at Joshua Tree. I'd put this at 5.10, but not .10+, easier than Menace or Maestro. Reachy at times, especially at the 6th bolt.
This isn't 10d, more like 10b. The guide gives it 10c. Maestro and Menace To Sobriety are both more difficult at 10c. It's not R either. The "unprotected" slab moves are about 5.7. I realize I seconded it, but I've led many a dicey route. Quality route that looks really friggin' hard.
First bolt isn't bad to get to, easiest 10d i've climbed in the dacks. I'd put it more at 10a 10b, I think the guidebook has it as 10c. It's C-tips actually, short for Carbide Tips because some of the holds are sharp.