Average Rating : 4.75 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (21)
Jim Dunn completed the upper pitches in 1970s
Rack to 4"
An outstanding and sustained route. Start: at the obvious right facing flake/corner about 150 feet right of Gamesmanship's unmistakable crack. (p.1, 130 ft, 5.9) Climb the obvious sustained right facing flake and corner system to its top, trend left on easy ground to a good stance. (p. 2, 170 ft, 5.9) Follow the twin crack system up and left until in a coffin slot. Exit the roof and continue up the crack to a (fixed?) belay or continue up (better) 15 feet and build an anchor. (p. 3, 170 ft, 5.9+) Go straight up the dike and ramble up lower angled but less featured rock to a bolt. Continue up easy rock to a belay beneath a hanging corner. (p. 4, 160 ft, 5.10-) Make a hard move into the corner and follow the obvious natural line up. Traverse left under the roof to an easy exit up slabs to the top.
Two double rope raps from the tree will get you down. Walking off south (left) towards the eroded dike makes for a better adventure.
Submitted by: eckov14 on 2007-08-30
Route ID: 26049
I wish the party in front of us would have been faster because we were on their ass the whole way up. We were gunning for a spaghetti dinner but didn't make it because we were walking out in the dark. The climbing on this is fantastic. The second pitch was my favorite. The last was strenuous but I think I was tired by then.