Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
Geoff Smith, Patrick Mun, 1977
A standard rack with a couple extra hand-sized pieces. A 70 meter rope makes it to the ground from the first belay.
Start by either grappling with the awkward/slippery corner, or climb the face by bearhugging the arete and face holds. Gain the small, sloping ledge,make a few "heads up" moves to the left, accessing the right-facing corner, then take this, for about 70 feet, to the fixed anchor.
Enroute, you'll encounter some fairly loose and hollow sounding flakes. Take some precaution here, as some of these may be more brittle than you think!
For pitch 2 (5.9): Head up and right from the anchor to a short left-facing corner in the roof. Climb this steep section (crux) and a nice crack, then weave your way up runout and perennially wet slabs to the Calamine Ledge. Climbing after pulling the exciting crux is pretty bad, be very comfortable on runout and spoogy rock.