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Paralysis - 5.8

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 151
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
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Rock (Trad)
PG13
5
A set of nuts and cams would get one through this easily. There are some fixed pins at the second and third pitch anchors. No anchors at the top.
400
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty (Not Rated)
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 5.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

This climb is past Bloody Mary at the far northern end of the cliff. It follows a right leaning ramp/crack system and then traverses right for a couple hundred feet with a very heady third pitch. One could rap down from the second or third pitch without leaving gear.

Pitch 1: The first pitch starts at the top of a large block which can be approached from the north side with some third class. It follows the right leaning ramp/crack system to the overhanging roof that caps this section of the face.

Pitch 2-3: You traverse right to an alcove. Another traversing pitch takes you underneath an airy roof to a good ledge. These pitches can be combined but it's a lot of traversing.

Pitch 4 (5.8 PG): From the stacked blocks with the fixed anchor, move left onto blocks below a bulge (Pro). Pull through the bulge on secure holds then trend up and right through easy unprotected terrain to a crack that leads to the hanging off-width with a few chockstones in it. Up the off-width (#5 and #4 C4s helpful) which transitions into a kind of right-facing corner and make an unpleasant finish by punching through vegetation to a tree ledge. Be mindful that many of the trees on the ledge are dead.

Pitch 5 (5.7 G): Above are two opposing corners and a vegetated face between them. This pitch climbs better than it looks. climb the face into the left-corner (right-facing) and climb to the top.

Descent Options:

There is a fixed anchor at the top of the 4th pitch. I think it would require rappelling through the tree ledge though, which is probably not advisable for the rope pull. Instead, walk climber's right for maybe 100 yards looking for an obvious large oak t

Submitted by: Bulletproof2000 on 2013-05-31
Views: 409
Route ID: 113856

3 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: Bulletproof2000 on 2014-06-21 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars led traverse (2+3), chuck did 1, 4+5

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Added: 2014-10-15

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: Bulletproof2000 on 2009-08-15 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Sun + Heat + Slab = ouch

burning hands and toes on slab traverse.

Added: 2013-05-31

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Flash Flash ascent by: Bulletproof2000 on 2010-08-21 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars burning up, not enough water

really nice route

Added: 2013-05-31