Start a few feet right of FM, where the trail meets the cliff. (p. 1, 130', 5.10-): Carefully climb a crack in white-spotted dike rock through a suspiciously rotten section below a piton. Continue to a bolt at a flaring groove in a left-facing corner. Up this (crux) to a jug and handrail that leads left to a 2 bolt belay. (p. 2, 100', 5.10b): Reverse the hand traverse rightwards, then re-enter the left facing corner system. Climb this (crux) using a crack on the right wall, then continue up the corner to a 2-bolt belay at an uncomfortable stance.
Rappel, our a 65+ meter cord made it to the ground just fine with two raps.
Submitted by: lucander on 2011-09-20
Route ID: 109922
Really good climbing on both pitches. Giving this a pg 13 because of bad rock on pitch 1. The bolt halfway up pitch one looks new, it wasn't mentioned in Lawyer & Hass guidebook. I was glad to have it, though, as there is gear in rotten stone below and an iffy #3 camalot above it. Once past this section, protection is a no-brainer.