First pitch is well bolted5.7 with 4 new SS bolts 2nd pitch is XX 5.8- 3rd pitch G with pins and ge
Start 30 ft right of Littlefinger. friction5.7 past 4 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. Pitc 2 is 5.8- X rated and heads straight up past a loose death flake and then straight up unprotected 5.8 friction whih eases off a bit before you meet with little finger at the bulge. Don Mellor himsel backed off this rt after downgradeing it to 5.7 in the new guide. the last 2 pitches are great and well protected. Straight through the bulge following a discontinus crack system past pins and gear headding left ater a full pitch to the rap anchors of screaming meani which are hidden in a slight alcove. Alturitvly you can head right to the trees. the first pitch of this gets climbes quita a bit. most partys traverse left into the reg. rt after the first pitch. The pitches through the bulge are populer as well. the first pitch is a good way to pass a slow party on little finger.
Head down and right from the end of "Little Finger" if facing away from the lake. From a set of bolts, two double rope rappel will get you to 3rd class terrain. 2nd rappel anchor is at a tree.
Submitted by: tradmanclimbs on 2004-07-22
Last Modified: 2007-02-09
Route ID: 11136
Haven't done the normal route but the variation is excellent. The water in Lake George is amazing. Head across the lake from the slab to find the enormous rope swing. It will launch you 40' in the air.
One of the best routes in the Adirondacks! A couple of (tri-)cams are very useful for a belay stance at the top of the crack after the crux bulge (though just wires are enough, done a number of times myself).