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Eastern Shield - 5.9

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Route sequence (left to right): 1
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The start is between Diagonal andWiessner at an open slabby area beneath huge orange overhangs. Follow a step like series of ledges and flake leading to a ledge.100' pitch 2- Follow the line of weakness to the large terrace below the shield. 130'pitch 3-Near the left side of this sheer faceis a left facing dihedrahl. Climb this to a ledge at its top and move right onto the slab. belaying at bad bolts.5.8 120' pitch4- Continue up the slight depression, tending left a bit, past many worthless bolts, belay high on the left at the base of aright facing corner. 5.9 120' pitch 5- Continue up slightly right on slabs and corners to a belay at a steep wall right of the towering offwidth crack. pitch 6- climb over the flake and up the crack, some aid was used here 5.9 A2 85'( a recent climb has seen a shift in the flake and is UNSAFE) pitch 7- walk left to a corner and on to the top. 100' Variation- This allows for a safer finish. climb the right facing corner (toilet bowl) for 10', then step right onto freshly exposed rock. thin and unprotected climbinh leads to a base of the final steep corner,marked by an overhang and midheight. the final pitch climbs this corner as a fitting finale. (taken from mellors guide book)

Submitted by: climb512 on 2001-11-21
Views: 500
Route ID: 7939