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Pleasure Victim - 5.11c

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Route sequence (left to right): 1
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700 feet in 7 pitches. This is one of the best long routes in the area. It takes a line to the huge, blank slab called the shield, and finishes in a climatic, overhanging corner.The rock is generaly excellent .Finding the start may be a problem.It is possible to ealk 4th class onto the ledges to the left below the shield,find the route and rap to its base for the first two pitches. please respect fixed gear left for rappels. 1st-Begin left of the Wiessner scree cone. Climb a face to a left leaning corner/crack,finish on a ledge under a cracked bulge.5.7 2nd-Climb through the bulge(5.9) and up the crack until a traverse left leads to a hanging belay in a small corner. 3rd-Easy rock leads up to the first large traverse terrace.This is also accessible from the base of the Wiessner amphitheater.5.1 4th- Begins at bolts atop a short tower of rockon the huge shield slab. climb left at first then up past several more bolts to a 2 bolt belay. 5.10 5th-head left(bolts) then up to a bolt before traversing right and up on easier rock to the base of the second traverse terrace at the top of the shield.5.9 it is possible to exit here over very loose rock. 6th-climb a long corner to a hard exit left 5.11 and up to a good crack to a fixed belay. 7th- this climax, climbs the right facing corner with the roof near the top. climb up to the base of the corner on very steep rock. A great finish up the corner and around the roof ends on the flat summit.5.11 descent- this has fixed raps, marked by bolts at the top of the cliff. the first rap overhangs severly. variation-left of the original start is a face climb with 8 bolts5.10- this joins the route after a pitch.

Submitted by: climb512 on 2001-12-16
Views: 643
Route ID: 5958