Came in from Tahawus, took the left fork as mentioned in an earlier post: much better way to access the Diagonal, or any other south-end route for that matter.
Decided to wander south along the base of the cliff and have a look-see at the 'slabby end'. Think we identified both 'Out with the Boys Again' (nice-looking crack) and 'Moon Unit', though not certain. About 5 minutes south of these we cast our bread upon the waters, or at least our ropes upon the rock. It's about a twenty minute scramble to here from the low-point of the Wallface cliff. We started up below a shrubby ledge with three birch trees, skirting the moss to access a left-facing corner well-endowed with cedars.
P1: stem the corner or face-climb left of it, using the cedars for pro. At the corner's top, head diagonally up left (a bit of a runout here), through a thin line of cedars up to the right side of a hanging garden with a crescent-shaped left-facing arch for your belay very close to a 200' rope's end.
P2: up the arched crack and then up and right along a crack that turns into a gully. Delicately traverse right to a short vertical crack. Up this to access another crack rising leftward and then intersecting another crack rising right to make an 'X'. Pass the right side of a line of bushes, make a short right-leaning move on a low-angle slab to a 10' headwall with a lovely little fist jam in it. Up that to belay in the truly awful krumholtz, very near to rope's end once again.
We thought it was a ne'er before done route, but there at the top of P2 was a very old sling on a rotting birch. Go figure.
Submitted by: jclimbs on 2003-10-12
Route ID: 42344