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Willsboro Bay

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About Willsboro Bay:

An official guide for this area doesn't seem to exist, but there are around 50 routes of very good quality, ranging in difficulty from 5.7 to 5.10, up to 40 meters in length, and many with excellent natural pro.
Nearest town or city: Willsboro
Directions: Just N of Willsboro, Take Bay Rd. until it turns into Bay Place (private?). Park here, to access the railroad tracks, which are right next to the road. Follow the tracks northward, through a VERY narrow cut (the 'tunnel'), for about 1/4 mile. From where you can see the bay, there is a path that drops down through the trees and around the S end of the cliff, across the top of a scree field (a few short slab routes start here), to a narrow platform just above the surface of the water. Some climbs can be started here. There is also foot access at the N end of the crag. All other routes are only accessible by rapping from above or by boat (many have belay anchors at the bottom).
Latitude, Longitude: 44.40981, -73.41730
Access Issues: Officially, walking along the tracks, and climbing on most of the cliff is within the rail right-of-way, and considered trespassing. Best to be very carefull not to be seen!
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When to Climb:
Quantity of Climbs: Week
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