About Moss Island:
The most popular area at Little Falls with climbs for everyone of every ability. Park under the Theodore S. Wind Bridge or drive in town and park. Youíll need to anyway for a permit unless you have a season pass. While in town locate the McDonalds and drive past its entrance (one way street). Turn right after its entrance on 167. Take your first left on Elizabeth Street-East Ramp and follow that street. This becomes South Ann Street. This crosses the Mohawk River and continues to a parking area near a hydro power plant.
Some long runners will be needed for some Top Rope set-ups. You can easily scramble up to set climbs on the east end of the outcrop as well as the islandís west end. There are many 3rd and 4th class descents as well.
Note: The Permit System has been stopped as of March 2010. You now can climb there for free. Stay tuned for this to get changed. Once I am notified by the mayor I will change this here.
The cliffs are composed of Precambrian granite basement like that of the Adirondacks. The black surface of the rock is a Manganese Oxide weathering rind and is not the true color of the unweathered rock. Some of the graffiti was covered with dark paint to match the surface of the rock and does affect the friction of certain routes. The afternoon sun does heat the very dark rock so this is a prime area for early spring climbing as well as late fall climbs. Climbing in late March with green grass below your feet is a common occurrence.
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