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Black Arete - 5.13a

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Tried on top rope for years and given the name Black Arete. 1st completed top rope was-Justin Sanford, 1st "Pink Point" lead-James Otey
Rock (Sport) (Toprope)
8 Bolts. A double draw is helpful on the 2nd clip, and a long sling is helpful on the 3rd clip.
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"The Black Arete also know as Arete Style Disfunction," is perhaps the most stunningly aesthetic and difficult line in Little Falls. Start by romping up some easy terrain, making the first two clips and then swing around to the left of the arete for a few moves. Make a super tenuous swing back left to the face and make a cruxy third clip. From here, the buisiness begins: Use an atrociously small left hand crimp and get a high left foot, eventually bumping all the way up to a small crimp (V6/7 in itself). Mount the second crux by using froggy foot technique on impossibly small holds until the large slopey horizontal can be had (V5/6) From there the climbing is technical mid-eleven crimping that feels way harder after pulling the difficult, thoroughly pumpy moves down low. Clip the chains.

Descent Options:

Bolted Anchors

Submitted by: t on 2010-11-11
Last Modified: 2012-10-28
Views: 1001
Route ID: 107256

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