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Alphonse - 5.8 popular
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Rock
Standard Rack
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Description:
Alphonse climbs a large dihedral and traverses left to a stance near an overhang. Pitch 2 climbs the overhang and goes for the top. Aside from one move on the overhang, Alphonse is mostly 5.6-7. The belay is one of the worst at the Gunks, so many people do it as one really long pitch with double ropes to avoid rope drag.
Submitted by: atg200 on 2004-06-15
Views: 507
Route ID: 3131
34 Ascents Recorded
Record an ascent
Read all 34 ascent notes
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.7 |
| Safety Rating | G |
Onsight ascent by:
Great and maybe a bit soft for the area
A lot of fun with a one move wonder crux, the rest of the route was mostly 5/6ish with a couple 7 moves here and there. The crux felt easy to me once I found the right holds and sequence. Plus it didn't hurt that someone had fixed a stopper that protected the crux!
Broke the climb into two pitches and set a hanging gear belay under the big roof before the left traverse. Route protects well and the walk off is easy and probably faster than a rappeling. Lots of exposure to get your blood flowing but that seems to be standard for the Gunks!
Broke the climb into two pitches and set a hanging gear belay under the big roof before the left traverse. Route protects well and the walk off is easy and probably faster than a rappeling. Lots of exposure to get your blood flowing but that seems to be standard for the Gunks!
Added: 2009-10-26
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
fun route
Did it as one "pitch" with doubles.
Added: 2009-10-16
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
One of my favorite 8s at the Gunks
What a line! A very pleasant climb, it has a nice warm up pitch up a great dihedral and an airy finish. The crux overhang is just technical enough to be interesting and the steep moves are fun. Definitely some air under your heels at the top of this route. I recommend doing it in two pitches, if youre creative with the belay on top of P1 it can be well located and not bad at all. People complain about it too much, not every route has to have a two bolt anchor and a huge ledge!
Added: 2009-08-19
| Ratings | |
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| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Second ascent by:
This is a great climb
This can be done in one pitch, with judicious use of long runners and not too many pieces on the traverse. As a shorty, I did not find the moves up the 8 section very difficult or reachy.
Added: 2009-08-14
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Awesome climb, moreso if youre tall...
and I am tall so I LOVED it. thought provoking moves and abundant pro characterize the first pitch. The hanging belay is nothing short of misery, but it must be done...
crux on p2 is not really that bad because there are decent feet but they are sort of underneath you so you might miss them if you are too excited and not looking carefully.
beautiful rock, high quality...dont miss this one!
(if you are under 6' tall you might think the crux a tad harder, but to be fair it is much easier than other gunks 8s (to my mind)
crux on p2 is not really that bad because there are decent feet but they are sort of underneath you so you might miss them if you are too excited and not looking carefully.
beautiful rock, high quality...dont miss this one!
(if you are under 6' tall you might think the crux a tad harder, but to be fair it is much easier than other gunks 8s (to my mind)
Added: 2009-04-17
