Climb the somewhat dirty face just right of the nose diagonaling out left to the arete. Climb up the arete and face above to a belay/rap tree. Doesn't look like much from the ground but a surprisingly good climb
Submitted by: ryanv on 2005-05-22
Route ID: 32097
I was surprised at the slabbiness of the upper part of Scuttlebutt. It felt harder than a 5.4, but, I was pulling the whole cliff with me; my rope was running through the notch. Once we freed the rope, things were better. Slabby goodness to the anchors. A single ring and a biner on the tree.
The beta on this one is confusing, one guide indicates three pitches, another only lists one. I led the first (or only?) pitch, which is scary in places with committing moves and PG pro. Started off on the supposed second pitch, which was covered with lichen and looked like it had never been climbed, so I downclimbed and we rapped off. Interesting route, not an easy 5.5; worth doing if the popular ones are already occupied.