50 feet left of Roseland is a slab with a sharp angled roof above. Climb this to the narrowest part of the roof, pull the roof(crux) and up the corner to its top. Go right at the top of the corner, then make a scary step down and left before heading up to the belay. Rarely done second pitch climbs up and right to a ledge, then past some small roofs to the top.
Submitted by: polarwid on 2004-06-15
Route ID: 11329
No hangs, no falls. This is a great climb. I am not sure where the crux moves are, it all feels somewhat sustained. This climb is much easier than Erect Direction (we did it yesterday, I am still sore and tired).
Backed off the lead in summer 2007, finally got back on it - what a climb! Committing first move making a high step with less than inspiring gear brings you to a roof with great holds above to another hard move before you get a stance. Pumpy. 5.8R runout is mitigated by small creative nuts. Guidebooks put this at .10b. One of the best tens at the Gunks.