Average Rating : 4.16 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 37
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (88)
Rock (Trad) (Toprope)
Standard Gunks Rack
Start below a piton about 15 ft. up and 10 feet to the right of Horsman. Climb to the piton then straight up and a bit to the left to small righ corner till you get to a small roof. Move right and thru overhanging section. After clearing overhang either climb straight to the top thru a chimney or climb diagonaly up and to the right to bolted anchors. ( It is posible to set a top rope of this anchors to top rope Coronary )
If you go thru a chimney - walk off using The Uberfall descent.
If you go to bolted anchors ( with chains )- use those to rap off.
Submitted by: admin. on 2006-10-23
Last Modified: 2007-02-17
Route ID: 3105
I was tired, it was the end of the day. I moved slowly and thoughtfull through the climb; it felt easy today. I told my partner about a great pink tricam placement near the flake. He was skeptical but I bounce tested the tricam and it was great.
First 5.9 trad lead! Maybe soft for 5.9. Didn't want to place pro in the creaky flake, but could have slinged it. Would've prevented huge run-out on the following sketchy, reachy move. Moves under the roof actually harder than the jugfest roof itself.