Way out at the end of the Trapps. Start right of the brushy 3rd class gully of Roger's Escape Hatch. Great climbing with tricky route finding for two pitches - a sandbag for the traditional grade of 5.2 Well worth the walk for the solitude alone.
Submitted by: atg200 on 2006-10-23
Last Modified: 2007-02-17
Route ID: 5736
Pitch 0 - Inside at Emilio’s: Enter down into the Comici wine cellar. Find your way up to the living room. Exit out the right skylight. Above left side emerging from skylight is the pine tree platform at the bottom of P1. We’ve climbed this lower starting pitch twice now: Great chance to make some climbing moves inside a cave. Wouldn’t make the walk out to Casa Emilio without doing it.
Difficulty? I don’t see how the easiest way I found thru this P0 each time could be harder than Gunks 5.3 -- my best guess for a difficulty grade would be Gunks 5.2. Length seemed less than 30 meters. I protected the first section (up to the “living room” level) with a threaded sling and a #2 Camalot (slightly larger would have been easier to place). Then I even remembered to place a directional in the “living room” to protect Sharon coming to the top of the first section. For the second climbing section (up out the “skylight”), I found a couple of smaller cam placements available.
How to get down into the Comici wine cellar? Take the normal yellow-blazed and cairn-marked trail (which starts like 70 meters before the S-curve) up into the near part of Sleepy Hollow, but stop when it reaches the face for Creaky Joints + Almost Pure and Simple (white-ish face with some obvious cracks in its right half, with a small flat area just below it). Now instead of continuing around the right side of the Creaky Joints pillar/buttress following the marked trail toward Casablanca, go up on its left side: Leave the marked trail and go left from the flat area, gently a short ways (20 meters?); then turn and walk up the hill (some grass + dirt). See the cave to the right, and walk down to its bottom. That’s the start of P0.
Emilio Comici was a famous early climber in the Dolomites in northeast Italy. The Comici route on the north face of the Cima Grande di Lavaredo (Drei Zinnen) is the ultra-classic long "moderate" alpine route. Early Gunks climbers also did first ascents in the Dolomites, which are still popular classics: Fritz Wiessner the west ridge of the Sass d'Ortiga (in 1928); and Hans Kraus (with Gino Solda) the south-east face of the Pala Delle Masenade. Fritz + Hans together did the first ascent in the Gunks of "Emilio", just next to this "Casa".