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Casablanca - 5.9

Average Rating = 3.50/5 Average Rating : 3.50 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 446
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (7)
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Rock
G
5.8G / 5.6+ PG. #1, #3 camalot helpful.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.50/5
  Rock Quality 3.75/5
  Scenery 3.75/5
  Fun Factor 3.50/5

Description:

FA: Dick Williams, Roy Kligfield, 1973 A wild crux roof. Wander up the face 30 feet right of the Casa Emilio corner (5.6+) passing two old pins. Clip and back up a third pin at an obvious flake in the roof. This is it - pull the roof. (Height-dependent 5.8; crimpy or slopey intermediate holds exist if you can't technique up to the thank-god jug.) Rap to the ground (only single rope needed) or the second pitch goes at 5.6. Thanks to the Swain guidebook for portions of this description.

Submitted by: feedmerocks on 2006-10-23
Last Modified: 2012-10-22
Views: 604
Route ID: 52675

7 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: local_guy on 2009-04-25 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars cool moves over creaky flakes

don't put your gear in them...

Added: 2009-04-27

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: local_guy on 2008-10-11 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars one hard move

up over the roof, and you can rest before, all the rest is pretty easy.

Added: 2008-10-13

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: lucander on 2007-06-24 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Casablanca

A very goopd route with fun moves. I'm 5'5" and didn't think that the roof was height related at all, certainly not the 5.9 that some books call it. Don't say you did the route if you skipped the second pitch...

Added: 2007-06-24

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: horalka on 2007-05-06 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars ascent note

Followed the first pitch, definitely hight dependent, but if you get your left foot up in the crack between two flakes, itís not too reachy. Lead the second pitch, but don't know why it was recommended, did not really like it, the only good thing about it was the view at the belay...

Added: 2007-05-08

Ratings
  Difficulty
Onsight Onsight ascent by: slab-dyno on 2004-10-09 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

No comment

Added: 2004-10-09

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