A rarely climbed but very fun route that requires a litany of esoteric trad skills like route finding, smart protection, and anchor building.
Start: At a large pine tree 75 feet left of Welcome to the Gunks.
P. 1 (5.6): Climb to a ledge 15 feet up. Diagonal up and right 15 feet to a stance at a horizontal. Hand traverse left (crux) 20 feet to an awkward mantle. Climb up ten feet, then make an easy traverse back right along a sidewalk 20 feet to a belay stance (120 feet).
P. 2 (5.8): Move up and right from the belay to a stance. Delicately climb up to a fault in the roof and make difficult moves past it on pebbles to an old pin (crux) that is difficult to clip. Trend up and right to a left facing corner, then up easier ground to a tree belay.
Rappel with a 70 meter rope from the tree (spooky shallow roots) or top out and find your way down.
Submitted by: lucander on 2010-06-15
Route ID: 105347