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Double Crack - 5.8

Average Rating = 4.62/5 Average Rating : 4.62 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 382
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (39)
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Rock (Trad)
G
1
Standard Gunks; protects very well.
165
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.78/5
  Rock Quality 4.43/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.61/5

Description:

Steep, sustained 5.8 climb that follows a crack system. First pitch - hardest moves seemed to be at the start of the climb - goes through an obvious alcove to a small ledge to the right. Second pitch continues up (short airy move off the belay) the obvious weakness through an offwidth (chimney). Nice ledge on top. Can be done as one long pitch.

Descent Options:

5/23/07: Slung chockstone for rap anchor right at 100 ft, otherwise double 60 meter ropes needed.

Submitted by: clam on 2007-05-30
Last Modified: 2011-07-19
Views: 1591
Route ID: 38071

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39 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Second Second ascent by: gblauer on 2013-06-01 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars It just keeps coming at you

Great climb, lots of great moves. Gear everywhere. First 40 feet are strenuous.

Added: 2013-06-01

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Second Second ascent by: gblauer on 2012-06-30 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Exhaustion + Heat= Hard climb today

It was super hot today. Also, I am totally exhausted. Felt hard.

If you rap off the lower tree, you need ALL of your 70M rope. I actually (purposely) rapped off the end of my rope to get to the ground. Better to get one of your taller friends to rap first and then hold the rope. Also, when the last climber raps make sure you hang on to the end of the rope otherwise it will recoil and you will not be able to reach it.

Added: 2012-06-30

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: monty4355 on 2012-05-12 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Kicked my butt!

Very sustained and pumpy! May only have 5.8 moves but the pump adds a grade!

Added: 2012-05-13

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: gblauer on 2012-04-15 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Great climb, long and tiring

Fun climbing all the way up. Someone cut the slings on the chockstone belay (I think that's a good thing). But, there is a way off the climb if you have a 70M (it uses every inch of the 70M). Rap down to the pine tree at a ledge below the tree at the top (this is a very short rap). Then rap from the pine tree all the way to the ground...again, you need a 70M rope.

Added: 2012-04-15

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: delgaudio on 2011-07-16 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars First time was great!

Took this one for a spin with Joby and Marion. Great climb. did it in one long pitch.

Added: 2011-07-18

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