Route finding is tricky on this one. P1: 5.7 PG-R Start left of No Glow on a concave face and head more or less straight up to the GT. P2: 5.9 G Move over to belay near a block. Climb the Block to a face and head underneath a left facing corner and tiered roofs on the right. Head up and traverse around the corner then up to a belay. P3: 5.10b G. Up and out left to a roof. Head over this at some large loose blocks to the top.
Submitted by: jackflash on 2006-10-23
Last Modified: 2007-02-17
Route ID: 77655
Was way more fun and much easier today. The campus traverse that I referred to in my earlier post, really did have feet. It wasn't "easy" but, it wasn't hard. Stopped at a hanging belay before the final assault. P3 has a funky, committing start. Scary scary start for a leader. Once you commit to the crimps you smear and keep going to a crack. jam in a piece and keep heading up and right. THen you are rewarded with a very cool traverse left and exit through the roof. Burly and my kind of climbing. Lots of fun. A righteous lead.
Ok, P1 is R rated slabby stuff then it moves into some easy climbing. P2 is really hard for a shorty, or I was just super low energy today. I had to campus the traverse as the feet were too low for me. Then the really odd move off of the ledge was super hard. I had to wedge my shoulder into the flake an push up to grab the crimps. Oh, the fun isn't over, there is another traverse and roof before you top out.
I was feeling so sluggish today, need to do this again when I have "wings".