An easier approach pitch leads to a short crux pitch. It is also possible to approach from the first pitch of The Nose.. Pitch 1, 5.7: Start at the vertical crack 25 feet right of The Nose. Climb this until you reach a the lower angle portion, then begin angling left aiming for the bottom of a dihedral left of a bush. (Climb into the dihedral to the left of the bush; it is tempting to try to traverse into its top. Don't do this.) Continue up dihedral and traverse left to a belay on the arete. Pitch 2, 5.9-: go back right and pull the roof at two parallel, thin roof cracks and up easier rock to belay/rap station. A single-rope rappel gets back to the ground.
Submitted by: feedmerocks on 2006-10-23
Last Modified: 2007-02-17
Route ID: 69229
A very good route but finding where the first pitch goes is difficult. Double finger size small cams are useful for making a bely and protecting the second pitch. The Fillipina/Boldville link up takes a more direct line and is also worthwhile.