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Gaston - 5.8

Average Rating = 2.67/5 Average Rating : 2.67 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 138
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (6)
Premier Sponsor:
Ken Prestrud, Lucien Warner, 1952
Rock (Trad)
PG13
3
Tri's, nuts, cams
270
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.17/5
  Rock Quality 2.83/5
  Scenery 3.17/5
  Fun Factor 2.67/5

Description:

An interesting 1st pitch beginning 15ft right of Splashtic. Climb a ramp up right past a bulge (threaded runner to protect bulge) move up and left on thin climbing then right to a belay at the base of the huge corner (5.7+). Up the corner to the GT ledge. Follow the corner to ceilings ( V1, 2) then traverse far left until the top is gained easily. (from Gunks Guide - Todd Swain)

Submitted by: elizaclimb on 2008-01-03
Last Modified: 2011-09-12
Views: 1069
Route ID: 91590

6 Ascents Recorded

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GoRead all 6 ascent notes

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: gblauer on 2011-09-10 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars THis climb is an "8" in the gray dick

Very different first pitch, not an easy climb and not an over abundance of gear. P2 was soaking wet and very poor quality rock, lots of loose stuff on the ledges. IN fact the party ahead of us was knocking quite a few rocks off as they ascended P2. P3 is great, lots of fun. Very exposed 5.5 moves over a great roof.

Bottom line: P1 is ok, P2 has poor rock quality, P3 is great

Added: 2011-09-10

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: danabart on 1976-05-09 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Seemed 5.8

Repeated this last year, seemed 5.8/5.8-

Added: 2009-03-09

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: stashyboy on 2008-08-29 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars anchor no longer there

needs to be replaced, not a bad route though

Added: 2008-09-12

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: horalka on 2008-06-01 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars Ascent Notes

couldn't commit the crux move, very height dependent and with gear dangling below my feet before even starting to move, bailed at crux, but seconded it clean

Added: 2008-06-02

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: lucander on 2008-05-24 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars Gaston

Tough reachy move to a pin. Second pitch to the GT is a blast.

Added: 2008-05-25

... Read all 6 ascent notes