Routes : North America : United States : New York : Upstate : The Gunks : The Trapps : Gory Thumb

Gory Thumb - 5.9

Average Rating : 3.69 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 238
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (14)

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First Ascent:

Jim McCarthy

Type of Climb:

Rock (Trad)

Safety Rating:

Pitches:

Protection:

On the G side of things. Small nuts, wires, RPs etcetera are helpful.

Length (ft):

190

Consensus Ratings
Difficulty	5.9
Safety Rating	G
Exposure
Rock Quality
Scenery
Fun Factor

Description:

p. 1 (70 ft.) Climb the right facing corner to a ledge, move up to the rightmost thin crack in the pretty white face. Make a nest of small pro and work up crack (crux) and continue straight up to ledge and belay (small cams helpful). p. 2 (100 ft) Work up to an old bolt that can be backed up with a green alien and continue through the bulge (fun, 5.5 +) up to an old piton. Trend right to the corner. Climb it to another old piton. From here make a long traverse across the dirty face to the next major corner. Climb through this corner (jugs) and up to a small stance with two pitons to the left of the roof. Watch for rope drag. p. 3 (50 ft) Pull the roof (5.6) on its left side on fun holds, continue up dirty and easy rock to the GT. Pitches 2 and 3 might be combined, I wouldn't try it though.

Descent Options:

2 ropes = walk left 30 feet to rap starion 1 rope = continue left on the GT another 170 feet to the station atop Son of a Bitchy Virgin. Make two raps to the ground. (note: it's the third station you'll pass)

Submitted by: reynolcma on 2007-04-23
Views: 366
Route ID: 75788

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