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Higher Stannard - 5.9

Average Rating = 3.85/5 Average Rating : 3.85 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 163
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (45)
Premier Sponsor:
1967 Jim McCarthy, John Stannard
Rock (Trad)
Thinnish pro plus standard Gunks Rack.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.33/5
  Rock Quality 4.13/5
  Scenery 3.40/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5


Climb the face to the right of Something Interesting to a thin left leaning crack. When it ends head right(crux) then up to a roof. Pull the roof and hand traverse right, then head left to the ledge. One might be interested in Variations Starts of this route. V1 - 5.9R - Climb the unprotected face with crimpers, 30 feet to the right from Something Interesting, climb straight up for about 15 feet, travers right and up to join regular route. V2 - R - Start directly under the bolted anchor of first pitch, first 25 feet is R, the rest is G-PG

Descent Options:

Rap from bolted anchors on pitch one, which is what most climbers do this days. First pitch is 80 feet long.

Submitted by: polarwid on 2006-12-29
Last Modified: 2007-02-17
Views: 1665
Route ID: 11307

45 Ascents Recorded

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  Safety Rating G
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: gblauer on 2014-11-08 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars quick run up to keep warm

Fun roof, thin face below.

Added: 2014-11-08

  Safety Rating G
Second Second ascent by: gblauer on 2014-06-27 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars haven't been on this in a long time

Very enjoyable, thoughtful face climbing to an easy roof. Lots of fun

Added: 2014-06-27

  Safety Rating G
Second Second ascent by: gblauer on 2013-08-18 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Really enjoy this route

Lots of fun moves, thin face climbing etc. Really like the entire route from start to finish

Added: 2013-08-18

  Safety Rating G
Second Second ascent by: gblauer on 2012-06-30 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Did the easier/more protected start

Not sure it was easier, but, there is gear as soon as you can get on to the jug. This is a great route, the moves keep coming at you.

Added: 2012-06-30

  Safety Rating G
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: gblauer on 2011-06-19 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Thin off the ground

Leads to easier climbing, then it gets a bit thin again. Nice easy roof up to the chains.

Added: 2011-06-19

... Read all 45 ascent notes