Good bolt(?) but if the bolt fails, you're dead. Start 30 feet left of Moonlight and climb a smooth face (5.8) past a tree (with slings?) and angle up right across easier rock to the GT ledge (long pitch.) Belay from tree near the Moonlight corner. P2: Step a little right to a small horizontal hold 10 feet up which also takes a small cam. Undercling up to the next horizontal (5.9), traverse slightly right and pull the small roof here (easier.) Angle up left on easy rock to a bolt. Make a balance move up to the next horizontal. Traverse left (crux) and pull the roof above at a weakness. Gear belay above. P3: (5.8ish) Continue up right-facing corner, move right and then back left to keep a straight-ish rope line up to an hourglass notch above.
Submitted by: feedmerocks on 2006-10-23
Last Modified: 2007-02-17
Route ID: 67340
Getting of the GT ledge...wow that's hard for a shorty
At least following my >6 foot partner. He started to the right of the big jug and easily reached the jugs. I actually popped off three times before I made the move successfuly. It's not like me to fail on a 9. Rest of the climb is fine. I was tired and sluggish today so all if it felt arduous.
Did P1 of Erect Direction. I was too tired to do P2/3 of ED so we did Keep on Struttin. Maybe I as tired, but these pitches felt awfully hard. That traverse above the bolt with no feet was pure burl. Interesting moves on the smooth white face, you don't see the crimps until you need them.