Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst - 5.6 popular

this climb is a classic, must-do, Gunks climb. i had never been on it, before leading this weekend with Liz seconding. i had heard such glowing reviews of it and it looked amazing so i was dying to get on it. the climb really blew me away- it was such fun climbing, on beautiful rock, with a great exposure through the entire climb. i felt challenged, but totally in control throughout- i definitely agree with those who say that it is the best 5.6 in the Gunks especially bc the climbing truly is sustained solid 5.6 throughout the entire climb. the pro is really great though, lots of opportunities to place whenever you feel like it, and the holds are all really great in all the crux/exposed sections.
i linked P2 and P3 together for one long (160 ft) pitch. this was part of what made the climb for me as i am so much happier the longer the pitch is- un-interrupted flowing climbing is great. i recommend doing it this way- just bring lots of long runners to reduce drag. and i had only single rack of cams to #2, so i had almost nothing on my rack by the end- lots of creative gear placements for me!! oh and finally the fun, airy rappel.
if you havent done Madame G's- climb it soon!!!

Pauline led the route in a single pitch, and I followed. Climbed this route in my first year(fell near top) and hadn't been on it since. Nice route, and especially when done in the one long pitch.

via Columbia

Had so much fun doing it a few weeks ago, I had to do it again with another second on this beautiful Fall day. Leaves were in peak foliage.

Exposure which beats High E. Stay left on the second pitch instead of going to the right. Incredible climbing. For the first pitch, the guidebook says to make an anchor above the big tree - just anchor at the tree/ledge then link the second and third pitch. Makes for a long, exposed, beautiful climb. Staying left makes it a bit harder - probably an 8 or 9.