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Matinee - 5.10d

Average Rating = 4.08/5 Average Rating : 4.08 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 94
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (21)
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1961, Yvon Chounard
Rock
G
3
Standard Gunks with some extra thin for first pitch.
200
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.20/5
  Rock Quality 4.10/5
  Scenery 3.40/5
  Fun Factor 4.30/5

Description:

About 50 feet right of Betty is a right facing corner capped by a roof. Up this to the roof, traverse left and pull the roof at the left end(crux). Set up a good belay and directionals for the second pitch which climbs the corner above the roof, to a rightward traverse and some more small roofs to the ledge. Climb the orange rock above to a bolt, swing the roof and up to the top. Three great pitches.

Submitted by: polarwid on 2006-10-23
Last Modified: 2007-02-17
Views: 810
Route ID: 11303

21 Ascents Recorded

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GoRead all 21 ascent notes

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: IsayAutumn on 2012-02-04 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Funtastic and varied

Followed my partner up pitch 1. Thought it was right on at 10d. Might have been soft, but that sort of thing just isn't my style. I initially took the lead on pitch 2, but could not figure out the crux. Did not want to just "throw" for the good horizontal until I got it and make a mockery of technique and style, so I lowered and let my partner get the clean ascent.

Added: 2012-02-07

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: zealotnoob on 2012-02-04 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars great route

Highly enjoyed the variety of climbing on P1 and P2. P1 could be a little soft given a good precise shoe. That move on P2 is stout. Short, yes, but stout enough, IMO, to be 5.11 elsewhere.

Added: 2012-02-06

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: girlclimb on 2010-08-14 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars like the second pitch

traversing under the roof has a pretty interesting move on it I wasn't to psyched on the traverse over to the belay ledge at first but it was fine. Second pitch was amazing hard and good

(on-sight second)

Added: 2010-08-17

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: fotovult on 2010-06-24 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars matinee

onsight P2

RP P1

Top pitch of the blackout is a nice way to finish the route to the top.

Added: 2010-06-24

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: johnwesely on 2010-06-14 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Amazing route

Best at the uberfall.

Added: 2010-06-14

... Read all 21 ascent notes