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Matinee - 5.10d
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1961, Yvon Chounard
Rock
G
3
Standard Gunks with some extra thin for first pitch.
200
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Description:
About 50 feet right of Betty is a right facing corner capped by a roof. Up this to the roof, traverse left and pull the roof at the left end(crux). Set up a good belay and directionals for the second pitch which climbs the corner above the roof, to a rightward traverse and some more small roofs to the ledge. Climb the orange rock above to a bolt, swing the roof and up to the top. Three great pitches.
Submitted by: polarwid on 2006-10-23
Last Modified: 2007-02-17
Views: 206
Route ID: 11303
16 Ascents Recorded
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Read all 16 ascent notes
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Second ascent by:
Thin feet
P1 only. Thin hands and feet make an exciting P1.
Added: 2009-08-03
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10d |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Onsight ascent by:
Short and sweet
The second crux was definitely harder than the first. I would have finished up on the last pitch of The Blackout if we didn't already do it earlier that day.
Added: 2009-08-02
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
Top Rope ascent by:
.
TR'ing the 2nd pitch I got it clean on the first try, while it took Nick multiple times...still one of my proud moments
Added: 2009-03-06
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10d |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
A real toughie
Both pitches are quite hard. The top of P2 is exquisite 5.8 climbing too, so don't bail just after the crux.
Added: 2008-08-20
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10d |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Fun stuff and a couple of powerful moves
The roof is very cool and you definitely have to trust your feet. No way is it the crux though, maybe 10b. The powerful corner above is much closer to 10d. A nice P3 finish is the roof with the single bolt protecting it at the top, I think on another route.
Added: 2008-08-08
