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Midnight Cowboy - 5.9

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 152
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
Premier Sponsor:
Dick Williams, 1960s
Rock (Trad)
A full quiver of gear including tiny cams, micro wires, and tricams. Build all of your own belays.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 3.00/5
  Scenery 2.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5


Start at a very thin right slanting crack on the right side of Nemesis Buttress and left of the No Recollection slab. P. 1 (5.9+) Climb the thin face and crack (crux) 20 feet to the first protection. Continue up the somewhat lichenated face to a belay atop the block above the slung anchor for No Recollection. Make sure that you have small gear, tricams, and know how to use them, this anchor takes creativity. (60 feet) P. 2 (5.9+) Climb up and left about fifteen feet, then move up the steep bulge (crux 1) to a stance on a comfortable ledge. Continue up to a small, right-facing corner with an old piton (back it up). Climb the clean face to the right (crux 2) on incredible crimps to a stance. Continue up to the GTL, aim for the right side of the right-most tree for the cleanest rock. Belay here (good gear, but sketchy rock) or set a bomber directional and walk left 35 feet to a healthy belay tree. P. 3 (5.9) This pitch is basically a variation to Simple Ceilings. Climb a low overhang, then pass a few smaller overhangs to a comfortable ledge at the bottom of a hanging right-facing corner (gulp) and an optional belay. Move up and out this corner (great pro) to an exposed perch and an optional belay. Continue up fifteen feet of easy rock to the top.

Descent Options:

Walk right and rappel the Three Pines rap line.

Submitted by: lucander on 2011-12-06
Views: 662
Route ID: 110340

1 Ascent Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: lucander on 2011-11-30 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Midnight Cowboy

A mini-adventure up a seldom climbed wall. Building all the belays, route finding, and piecing together the climb make it feel a lot like a big climb. This was one of the highlights of my season.

Added: 2011-12-06