Start left of Han's Puss beneath a large block on a ledge above. P1: 5.10c. Climb up and past the block onto a thin face (5.9). Traverse left a few feet, over the roofs, then follow the left-facing corner to the GT. P2: 5.10a. Follow the left-facing corner to a blocky alcove beneath the final roof. Hand traverse right to footholds and a shallow open book.
Submitted by: jackflash on 2006-10-23
Last Modified: 2007-02-17
Route ID: 77912
We did this as a link up from p1 of proctoscope, p2 of feast of fools. P2 is one really sick climb. It's all good up to the traverse, but, man that traverse is a killer. For this shorty, it was tough to get started, the crack under the roof is slopey and doesn't have a positive edge. I had to reach way around to get started; a very akward move. I figured I was going to wing off into outer space and never get back on the rock. Anyways, I reached out and started the traverse. I found that I could put my feet on the wall and just inch along. It worked pretty darn well. But, I am only 5' 2", my 6' + partner had to campus.
This climb was scary scary scary, I wasn't sure I could do it and I am glad that I forced myself to make the moves. Lots of fun! (It was hard to clean the gear on the traverse)