Just right of Thin Slabs is an atypical short, stout, well protected roped boulder problem (30 feet). Two pins protect the hard moves, and make this a great breaking into 11s climb. (build an anchor above the crux, or continue up to Thin Slabs' belay with a directional.
Submitted by: stashyboy on 2006-12-10
Last Modified: 2007-02-17
Route ID: 81650
I overheard someone say that this was the best protected 11 in the Gunks. Uhhhhh, no. The first pin can be backed up with a good small cam. THen you must do a full body lenght move and reach to clip the second pin. You are pretty close to the ground here. Making the next cruxy move requires good reach. I was fully stretched out. Once you get the next "good" hold you must do a couple more moves to gain a ledge without protection until that ledge. If the last pin holds, you're probably fine. If it doesn't?